Major end of season discounts end soon. Click here for on sale trees. Plus: Multiple Tree Discount: Save up to an extra 15%, Auto Applies in Cart. ×
866-216-TREE (8733)

You have no items in your shopping cart.

Subtotal: $0.00


  • Planting Trees In Pots

    Trees are not to be repotted or planted in the ground until they have acclimated for 2 weeks.
    Trees can arrive in shock due to transport and it can take at least 2 weeks or longer for the tree to recover from shipping.

    For trees in zones 9 and above you can plant or keep the trees in a pot.
    Planting instructions in the ground are located here:

    When transplanting, You can double the size of the pot but don’t plant in pots above 10 gallons.
    The larger the pot the faster the tree will grow so if you get a small tree you can plant it in a 10-gallon pot as long as you water according to the pot size.
    A pot that is too large can be heavy and hard to manage if you need to take the tree indoors for the winter so do not go beyond the 10-gallon size.  All trees are to be taken indoors in the winter in zones below 9 while they are under our warranty.

    Use a soil mix that is lightweight and drains well. Avoid soils that contain wetting agents or fertilizers. Start with a good rich organic soil -rose garden soil mixes formulated for outside garden use will work well or MiracleGrow Palm Cactus/Citrus soil is well draining.

    When selecting a container, be sure there are sufficient drainage holes in the pot.
    You can drill more holes in a plastic container if you need to.
    Be mindful of the pot you choose. Do not plant a tree in a shallow pot, the root system of the tree needs room to grow.
    Never plant a tree in a pot with the reservoir attached at the bottom of a pot, this will cause root rot.
    Never plant a tree in a pot with a plug, plugging the drainage hole.
    Never use cloth planting bags for trees.
    Planting a tree in a planter bag can be detrimental to the tree due to watering and shifting soil which causes the bag to warp, and bulge out, into odd distorted shapes because there are no solid sides to the pot preventing it. After a while, the continual watering and shifting soil can loosen the root ball from the soil and cause the tree to fall out, ripping the roots in the process.

    Do not place rocks in the bottom of the pot when transplanting or pile decorative rocks on top of the soil after planting. Locate the root crown of the tree and never cover it with soil or mulch. To see a photo of the root crown visit us at:
    It is completely normal to see fine roots on the top of the soil. DO NOT dig around the root crown removing soil. There are fine roots on the top that you could easily break.


    Add soil to the new pot. Before removing the tree from the old container inspect the top of the soil in the old pot. The soil you can see on top is your soil line.
    Never break up the soil line and never add soil above the soil line.
    Carefully remove the tree from the pot and set the tree in the new pot on top of the new soil, if the tree's soil line is not an inch below the rim of the pot then remove the tree and add or remove soil.
    Never add soil to the top, the soil must always be added from the bottom and the sides.
    Once the tree is in the pot add soil to the sides of the pot until the soil is built up to meet the topsoil of the tree.
    Over the course of time, you may notice that the tree's soil line has slowly settled down into the pot, this happens after watering over time as some soil will get washed out and an empty space is created between the rim of the pot and the soil line.
    You do not want to ignore a large space between the rim and the soil line, this space can be utilized for the root system of the tree so all the space in the pot is being used for the root system. In this event, you would remove the tree add more soil, and then re-pot.


  • Fuyu Persimmons

    The Fuyu Persimmon is by far our best-selling persimmon tree.
    Are persimmons citrus? No, persimmon trees are considered fruit trees and will start their dormant period in the fall.
    Persimmons are Japan's national fruit and widely grown and cultivated for over a millennium in Asian countries.
    Japanese ripe persimmons make delicious bread, bagels, and muffins, along with stuffing, jams, jellies, curry, pies, dark brown sugar, cinnamon, and raisin cookies along with other baked goods. They can also be served in salads with watercress, tomatoes, basil, red pepper, onion, and almonds along with homemade salsa and marinades or roasted even added to breakfast cereal.

    Japanese Persimmons
    We offer 4 varieties of persimmons Fuyu, Hachiya, Suruga, and Tanenashi.
    We offer two types of trees, the Hachiya and Tanenashi which will produce astringent persimmons (not as sweet), and the sweeter non-astringent persimmons of Fuyu and Suruga.
    Persimmons are a tree fruit related to the date plum.

    The Fuyu Persimmon is a non-astringent like an apple and squat shape variety, the fruit is eaten fresh off the tree. The Fuyu is the most popular compared to other varieties and has no seeds and is great for cooking and eating. The fruits tend to ripen in November and are as sweet taste and crisp like apples making them a favorite and special treat. The Fuyu persimmon is sometimes called the Sharon fruit, and they make for a perfect food to be eaten raw.
    How to ripen Fuyu persimmons. Place the fruit on a plate in the sun and they will ripen.

    The Hachiya Persimmon is an astringent variety, the fruit is picked when firm and bright orange and stored until soft. The Hachiya is often used in baking and is also a favorite for eating as fresh fruit. The Hachiya Persimmons' ripe fruit is wonderfully sweet that can be added to your favorite recipes.

    The Suruga Persimmon is a non-astringent variety, the fruit is a small round, deep orange with a sweet maple syrup flavor, vibrant, and delicious fruit.

    The Tanenashi Persimmon is an astringent variety, a seedless prolific producer of medium-sized round to cone-shaped orange-red fruits.

    Whatever your preferred Japan national fruit types of astringent varieties or non-astringent varieties Fuyu and Hachiya or, Suruga or Tanenashi, all the trees can produce fruit for many years and can be container grown in colder zones.

    The astringent persimmons are a variety that is inedible when firm. To consume them, the flesh needs to become extremely ripe, like an over-ripe tomato. The persimmon's nutritional value is like a tomato with a slippery texture and produces softer skin during the ripening process. The fruit is ready to eat when fully ripe and you can store persimmons at room temperature to ripen and they will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks. The fruit is picked in the fall and can be taken to the persimmon market or the fruit can be dried, frozen, or use the fruit for jams and jellies.

    Dormant trees still need to be protected (winterized) to remain healthy and free from diseases and insects. Prune dead branches in the later part of the fall. Foliage and branches that are in contact with soil invite undesirable pests. Therefore it is best to keep the winterized potted dormant tree clean of debris. Set it in an unheated garage or basement and allow it to go dormant for the winter months. Water the tree as you would typically through dormancy. It helps to have a moisture meter because in colder climates (even indoors) the tree will not need to be watered as often.
    Water the dormant tree when the meter reads 40%. Fertilize dormant trees in February with a 5-5-5 fertilizer.

  • Best Lime Tree for You to Buy

    Lime trees love lots of sunshine and, well-draining soil. They give your indoor and outdoor garden an elegant style and a heavenly scent of citrus year-round. Growers in regions below zone 9 can choose to grow in a container. Deciding which lime to grow will depend on the fruit you would prefer since all citrus have the same basic requirements.

    The Persian Lime

    Is the most sought-after lime tree and is a heavy bearer of juicy, lemon-sized fruit from winter to early spring. This lime variety needs very little heat to ripen, making it an excellent choice for backyard plantings or as a container-grown plant. The fruits turn to a pale yellow at full maturity and have a thin, smooth rind.
    The Persian lime is also known as the Tahiti lime tree or Bearss lime. This citrus fruit is grown commercially in the U.S. and sold in the grocery section. and is good for juicing and has a more tart taste and is less sour than key lime juice.
    Persian Lime Tree:

    Key Lime
    Also called Mexican lime and popular with growers, this lime produces beautiful blossoms that give off a very sweet, welcoming scent that will fill your home.
    The key limes are great for cooking, garnishing drinks, or making the famous key lime pie.
    Key Lime:

    The Kaffir Lime
    The Kaffir is a thorny tree with an aromatic pungent scent of all citrus fruit with distinctively "double" leaves.
    The kaffir limes produce a rough, green fruit. The green lime fruit is distinguished by its bumpy exterior and its small size. The rind of the Kaffir lime fruit is commonly used in Lao and Thai curry paste, adding an aromatic, astringent flavor.
    Its hourglass-shaped Kaffir lime leaves are widely used in Asian cuisine.
    Kaffir Lime:

    Sweet Lime
    The flesh of the sweet lime is tender, very juicy, and non-acidic fruit. The sweet flavor of the limes can be peeled and eaten as a snack.
    Sweet lime is popular in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Latin American cuisines. Can be used in a variety of recipes or sweet dishes such as marinades, sauces, desserts, garnish, cocktails, meat, and poultry.
    Sweet Lime:

    Finger Lime
    Hailed as the "Caviar of Fruit". The finger lime has a refreshing taste that is very different from other citrus fruit, somewhat resembling a gherkin, elongated in shape, and up to 3 inches in length which are far from the usual lime shape which is round or spherical.
    When the caviar lime is cut in half, the light green juice vesicles ooze out giving the appearance of caviar erupting from the fruit. The translucent, pale green or pinkish vesicles in finger limes are round and firm, and pop on the tongue like caviar, releasing a flavor that combines lemon and lime.
    Australian finger lime:

    Limequats are a hybrid of a lime and a kumquat. The round fruits are about 2 inches long. They have a thin yellow-greenish rind and light yellow skin. Limequats are a great fruit for Garnishing Drinks or adding flavor to meats and fish. The entire fruit is edible, including the skin, just like the kumquat. Many gardeners choose to grow limequats ornamentally.
    Limequat Tree:

    You can grow many types of limes from Key lime, Persian, Finger, or Kaffir, care of lime trees and growing lime trees is no different than most citrus trees.
    In containers, they need well-draining soil and lots of full sunshine. In northern regions of the country, they can be taken indoors during cold temperatures. With supplemental lighting, the trees can continue to ripen and produce fruit. Whether your favorite is the Tahiti lime or known as the Thai lime or the Bearss lime, Mexican limes, Sweet limes, Lime green caviar of the finger lime, acidic flavor, refreshing taste, or acidic taste, many types of lime fruits can be available to grow with all the lime tree varieties we offer which can help you start your own personal orchard of citrus fruits.

  • The Potted Olive Tree

    Growing olive trees are a popular favorite with interior decorators such as the
    This long-living evergreen tree was first cultivated in ancient Israel. Arbequina olive trees are self-fruiting trees that have an enchanting gnarly appearance. The tree’s beauty has been extolled for thousands of years.

    Arbequinas olive tree is typically small with weeping branches and is best grown in loamy soils in a well-draining pot.
    Choose pots for olive trees that are well-draining with drainage holes, never allow trees to sit in standing water as this will cause root rot.
    We do not recommend pots larger than 10 gallons when planting olive trees. Pots can become very heavy and watering could become hard to manage in larger pots.

    Add soil to the new pot. Before removing the tree from the old container inspect the top of the soil in the old pot. The soil you can see on top is your soil line.
    Never break up the soil line and never add soil above the soil line.
    Carefully remove the tree from the pot and set the tree in the new pot on top of the new soil, if the tree's soil line is not an inch below the rim of the pot then remove the tree and add or remove soil.
    Never add soil from the top, the soil must always be added from the bottom.
    Once the tree is in the pot add soil to the sides of the pot until the soil is built up to meet the topsoil of the tree.

    Over the course of time you may notice that the tree's soil line has slowly settled down into the pot, this happens after watering over time as some soil will get washed out and an empty space is created between the rim and the soil line.
    You do not want to ignore a large space between the rim and the soil line, this space can be utilized for the root system of the tree so all the space in the pot is being used for the root system. In this event, you would remove the tree and add more soil, and then re-pot.

    We recommend using a moisture meter to avoid over-watering.
    The Arbequina is semi-deciduous, meaning they can experience some leaf drop in the winter indoors. It is best to place them near a sunny window away from heat vents.
    The tree needs full sun for at least 6 hours daily, or it will drop foliage.

    We hope you enjoy your potted olive tree for many years.

  • What Are The Best Citrus Varieties For Growing Indoors?

    By far, the Meyer Lemon is the most popular. Like all the lemons, it is easy to grow, prolific and does not need a lot of heat to ripen the fruit. The Meyer is slightly sweeter than the classic commercial varieties (Eureka). Its soft skin develops an orange hue when the fruit is fully ripe, and its distinctive, mystical flavor combines lemon with a hint of tangerine. The Meyer lemon can be very productive, even indoors.
    Kaffir Lime leaves are used extensively in Thai and Cambodian cooking, and zest of the fruit is an ingredient in some curry paste recipes. Keep your Kaffir lime tree close at hand in a sunny window and you'll be able to create authentic recipes year-round. Calamondin (Kalamansi) is a diminutive tree originating in the Philippines. It's ornamental form, fragrant blooms and small tart orange-colored fruits have made it a favorite for centuries. The sour juice of ripe fruits can be used in salad dressings and other recipes.
    How To Grow Dwarf Citrus Indoors & Outdoors?
    Container-grown citrus trees can be kept on patios and decks in warm weather, then moved inside to avoid frost damage in winter. To avoid shocking your tree with a sudden change of environment, move it gradually. Place the tree in partial shade for a week or so, to make the transition from full sun outdoors to partial sun indoors. For an indoor Citrus, you'll need to supplement lighting. If your tree will receive less than 6 hours of full sun per day indoors, it is best to supplement with grow lights. Adequate sun exposure is essential for fruit production. We recommend a 5000K full spectrum bulb (with reflector) which promotes overall plant growth. We recommend that you use the light 10 hours per day
  • How Do I Treat Damage Caused By Frost & Freezing?

    Water the tree immediately as freezing temperatures pull the moisture out of the tree's roots.
    Wait and determine the extent of damage before pruning in the spring or when the possibility of frost has passed.
    Identify the graft or bud union, and make sure the fruiting wood above the graft is still green and healthy.
    Photo of the graft can be found here:

    If it is viable it should produce new buds in the spring. If all the leaves are brown
    and curled, remove them in the spring and water the tree with a quarter cup of bone meal mixed in a gallon of water for a potted tree.
    It will take a few weeks for the appearance of new buds. After bud break, you can prune the branches if desired.
    Preconditioning helps; trees exposed slowly to cold will fare better than those subjected to a sudden frost. Also, prolonged exposure to cold is more damaging than a brief plunge in temperature. Here are some methods we have used to help protect plants when freezing temperatures may pose a threat.

    Listen for news of cold fronts, and be prepared to take action!
    Water all garden plants thoroughly before a freeze since freezing soil will pull sustaining moisture from the roots.
    Use antitranspirant sprays. Common brands: Anti Stress and Cloud Cover.
    Put old fashioned, heat-producing Christmas lights in the trees or in landscape lighting under the trees. This method often yields excellent results for cold-sensitive lemons and limes.
    Hot bulbs can scorch leaves, so take care to angle them so that they directly touch foliage as little as possible.
    Use frost cover blankets, also known as floating row cover or Remay. This is a spun polyester material designed to cover trees and plants. It can be draped directly on the plants and secured at the ground to trap daytime heat. Unlike plastic covers, it can be left on during the day without fear of overheating the plants. Used in combination with lighting, it is a great way to protect cold-sensitive plants.

  • Why Should I Prune My Citrus Tree?

    Citrus may be pruned to any desired shape. Pruning is fine any time of year, except in the winter for outdoor trees. Pinching back tips of new growth is the best way to round out the trees without impacting future fruit.

    Citrus will look fuller with occasional pruning to shape leggy branches. Very leggy branches indicate the need for more light. Some trees may develop erratic juvenile growth above the graft. If so, prune for shape and balance. Any growth above the graft can eventually bear fruit.

    Pruning to Optimize Fullness & Fruit Production

    Any branch with fruit is putting its energy into fruit production. Prune the other branches now, make the pruning cut just above a leaf without leaving a stub. If you take off more than 1/3 of the length, the tree will make multiple branches at the pruning cut, thereby making the tree more full.


  • What Is The Productivity & Ripening Time For Citrus?

    All of our Citrus are fruit producing ages. But like all fruiting trees,  the citrus also go through stages of fruit drop. The tree is dictated by mother nature in determining whether it has enough energy to fully take its young fruit to maturation. Sometimes it will drop its fruit to ensure it has enough energy to maintain the primary life systems such as its canopy and roots. As the tree matures, gets stronger and becomes more established, its fruiting capacity will increase.

    Once the trees are about 3 years old, they are mature enough to handle fruit production without impacting branch and foliage growth.
    For lemons and limes, the time from bloom to edible fruit is generally 6-9 months. For winter
    oranges and other citrus, it is generally 12 months. Keep in mind that all citrus fruits only ripen
    on the tree. The best way to determine ripeness is to pick a fruit and sample it, since rind color
    can be an unreliable indicator.
    Average Crop Yield
    In appropriate climates, a mature Dwarf Citrus tree planted in the ground can produce about 2/3 as much fruit as a full-sized standard citrus tree in the ground. Some varieties "hold" fruit well on the tree for extended periods, while others need to be picked promptly because fruit quality will deteriorate quickly after ripening.

    Can I Determine Ripeness By The Color Of The Fruit?

    Cooling nighttime temperatures trigger the appearance of orange and yellow hues in the rinds of citrus fruits. In temperate climates that have gradually cooling nighttime temperatures toward winter, fruit coloration is generally a good indicator of ripeness.

    In tropical climates and also in many indoor growing situations, fruit coloration may not be the best indicator of ripeness because the tree is not receiving the necessary climactic cues for fruit coloring. This is why the Key lime is harvested green in the more tropical areas of Mexico and Florida where it is grown commercially. These limes are ripe when picked, even though they are still green. Limes in California and other areas that receive cooler temperatures during the ripening season will turn yellow when ready to pick. Like most citrus, lemons are green as they develop, then turn gradually to yellow when ripe. (Extremely ripe Meyer lemons take on a lovely orange hue.) Once mature, most lemon varieties will hang on the tree for several months, slowly growing larger and developing thicker skins.

    When coloration is not a reliable indicator, ripeness can be determined with other methods. Look for the development of a dusky appearance on the rind of ripe fruits. The final determinant of ripeness will be how the fruit tastes. Sampling is often the most reliable indicator of when to harvest. Remember that citrus will not ripen further once picked.

    More information on green fruit and fruit drop here:

  • Killing My Citrus With Love

    Friday Afternoon:

    Oh, that beautiful lemon tree you sent me. I am so excited about this tree
    I can hardly contain myself.
    It’s the dead of winter and the weekend is here.
    I pull you out of your packaging and you make me smile.
    You are blooming like it's a warm spring day.
    This grower's pot is not worthy of you!
    This weekend I will find you a new pot.
    Here you go, have a drink of water.


    Let me pull you right out of that black grower's pot my little darling, and place you in some beautiful container. Oh, I know you traveled a long way to get to me and you had a rough journey.
    I know you cannot wait, a beautiful tree deserves a beautiful pot.
    I’ll pay no attention to the long journey you traveled or be critical of the pot I have planned for you, or the soil I plant you in.
    Who needs to bother with the small things like drainage?
    This pot is just too nice to pass up and it will make you look incredibly beautiful.
    Let me fill the pot with rocks at the bottom so I can impede your drainage over time.
    For added beauty, I’ll place rocks on the top of the soil to keep the soil from drying out correctly, or maybe I'll add some more plants!!!
    You look lovely, let me set your pot inside this catch tray in a corner as you become part of my decor, you are so beautiful and you smell heavenly.
    I think you need a cup of water.

    Oh beautiful Citrus, let me get you a cup of water.
    Where oh where did I put those tree care directions?

    Monday- Wednesday:
    I think maybe I should have read those tree care directions, I wish I knew what I did with them?
    Oh beautiful Citrus, let me get you a cup of water.

    Oh, my citrus tree you’re looking a little depressed today!
    I think I’ll go to my local nursery and ask someone what to do about it.
    Here, let me water you with just a little water, just enough so I don’t have to worry about water messing up my wood flooring.

    It’s been a week and some of your leaves have yellowed and green ones are on the floor.
    Why are you misbehaving? I have done everything for you.
    I think I’ll call the company this week.
    You poor thing. This should fix the problem, have a cup of water.

    Saturday & Sunday:


    We agree at Lemon Citrus Tree that dwarf Lemons, Limes, and Orange trees can beautify your decor but they cannot beautify your space if their needs are not met.
    Trees are living plants and they have special needs.

    The photo above of the lemon tree would look fantastic in any corner of a living or dining room if it were just a fake tree with silk flowers, but it’s not and it can’t be treated like a fake tree or plant.

    Let's go through each of the mistakes in this story:

    First of all, let’s not transplant. The tree has traveled some distance so it's best to give it a bit of a reprieve from the journey and just set it in a bright sunny area so it can get direct sunshine and leave it alone.
    Before transplanting, make sure to check the potting instructions, located on our website.

    If it is in shock it needs some time to adjust to the new environment.
    Do not place the tree near a heat vent or against a wall or in a corner of a room with no lighting.
    Wait at least 2 weeks before attempting to transplant the tree into a new pot.

    When shopping for a new pot, look for one that is double in size, and don't go beyond a 10-gallon pot. Flip the pot over and look at the drainage holes, if you see no holes, it's the wrong pot for the tree.
    Make sure the pot has good drainage and purchase a well-draining soil without moisture retention additives.

    A moisture meter is a simple tool to let you know when to water and it also lets you know if the tree, once the water drains, whether it needs more water than what you have given it. So, always recheck the soil after water drains.

    A cup here and a cup there for a large tree is not going to work out well.
    If you have to take a tree indoors for the winter a drainage tray is not a splurge. Lifting heavy pots can be a chore and when the soil is wet the tree is pretty tough to pick up.
    Choose a tray for the long term that can hold at least a gallon of water.
    A small plant stand would be great (It will save you a lot of work) so the pot won’t be sitting in standing water.


    If you have the tree sitting in a drainage tray, then you are not watering it correctly.
    Citrus trees need DEEP infrequent watering, not a few cups every few days but more like a gallon (if your pot is large) normally you should be watering indoors every other week.
    Check the moisture level with a meter BEFORE and AFTER watering, this will ensure you’re correctly watering it. NEVER leave the meter in the pot when not in use.

    When you grab for the water jug BE LIBERAL with the water, drench the soil.
    Correctly watering your tree will be a mess if you don’t have the correct set up to start with.
    Citrus hate wet feet, so the pot sitting in standing water is not good for the tree. If you water correctly then water will pour out of the holes into the catch tray.
    It is definitely worth the time and effort to get the tree set up correctly.
    NEVER ever plant other plants with the tree, plants will rob a Citrus of water and nutrients.

    Think Florida - Citrus trees love the Florida weather, it’s sunny & humid.
    Sitting the tree near a heat vent will turn a happy tree into a sad tree.
    If you live in an area where the tree needs to be taken indoors in the winter, please keep in mind the light requirements and supplement lighting.

    For indoor lighting, use full spectrum high lumen lighting ONLY



    Caring for citrus and fruit trees is easy if you avoid the pitfalls.  This article will break it down in simple and easy steps to help you keep your trees happy and healthy.
    To make it convenient you can just click on the links below that will show you the recommended products.


    Underwatering and overwatering are both detrimental to the tree.
    Citrus Trees prefer infrequent, deep watering. Generally, once a week is all that is needed.
    We strongly recommend utilizing a Moisture Meter for trees grown in pots that reads between 1-10 before watering, because once a week watering could be too much water for a container-grown, indoor tree.
    Once the tree has been watered properly, check the soil with the moisture meter after the water drains to make sure the meter reads 10. This will ensure that the tree has been watered deeply and properly. You will not have to water the tree again until the meter reads 4.
    Do not leave the meter in the pot when not in use.
    Moisture meter for trees grown in the ground


    Do not use these products on fruit trees (Look under the Fruit tree recommended fertilizers)

    I highly recommend Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro. This product helps plants thrive and has nutrients that other fertilizers may not have enough of. I use this product as a foliar spray,  although you can also water the tree with it. The great thing about this product is when using it as a foliage spray, it goes straight to the tree within days, so you don't have to wait to water and feeding through the root system of the tree takes time for nutrients to break down.

    When fertilizing with any of the recommended products, keep in mind that the directions on the bag of fertilizer are directions for trees that are planted in the ground, not for container-grown trees, so be careful not to use too much fertilizer at one time for a potted tree.
    When using Fertilome Fruit, Citrus, and Pecan Tree Food, be careful not to use too much of this product due to its high ratio of nitrogen. The ratio is 19-10-5 so it's a great product to use occasionally. Normally when using the high nitrogen Fertilome Fruit, Citrus, and Pecan Food I'll wait a month and then switch to something that is not so high in nitrogen, such as Espoma Citrus Tone or Fish Emulsion
    Occasionally I'll add Bone Meal mixing a quarter cup to one gallon of water and water the tree with the mixture.  Bone meal will cause the tree to grow and bloom, so it is important to know bloom times.
    For Orange trees, a good time to use the bone meal mixture is mid-February if your tree is indoors and protected from freezing temperatures. Don't overuse bone meal due to the tree's need for nitrogen. Citrus are heavy nitrogen feeders and bone meal has phosphorus.
    Whenever you use bone meal you must supply a nitrogen fertilizer within a few weeks or within a month.
    Sometimes I mix equal parts of bone meal and Blood Meal together (2 tablespoons of each) to 1 gallon of water and water the tree with the mixture since blood meal is a nitrogen product.
    If you are feeding an orange tree,  I would simply use a quarter cup of just the bone meal in February and then in a month use a nitrogen product. This way the tree gets the boost of phosphorus for growth and blooming.

    Orange trees bloom between February through May so the bone meal will give it the boost it needs to bloom just keep in mind it is important to make sure you feed the tree nitrogen fertilizer thereafter so the tree has plenty of nitrogen to produce and grow the fruit.

    Although I have recommended quite a few fertilizers, you can just pick a few of them and add to your stock over time.  Dyna-Gro would be at the top of the list.

    If you ordered the smallest tree then I would transplant the tree after 2 weeks into a larger pot before starting a fertilizing schedule.

    A high nitrogen fertilizer like Fertilome Fruit, Citrus Pecan Food is a good product but be careful when using it for a potted tree, you don't want to use too much with a ratio of 19 on the nitrogen.
    (3 gallons pots) 1 teaspoon every other month
    (7 gallons pots) 1 tablespoon every other month
    (10 gallons pots) 2 tablespoons every other month.

    On the months you skip you can choose 
    Blood Meal,
    Fish Emulsion
    Citrus Tone

    so you'll be feeding the tree something monthly, Just use the same ratio above for the pot sizes, the fish emulsion needs to be diluted in water.
    Since trees are living things I try to consider the fact that I would not want to eat the same meal every day. After a while, my favorite meal would not be my favorite anymore.
    So I try to consider that when feeding my trees and give them some variety.
    Also, please keep in mind, your tree is trapped in a pot, like a fish in a fishbowl and it cannot get nutrients unless you provide them. If we fed our fish the same way we fed our trees, in many cases the fish would be floating belly up.

    For trees planted in the ground please follow the directions on the bag and if your winter is cold stop fertilizing in mid-September.



    Fertilizing Fruit trees like Olive, Figs, Persimmon, and Pomegranate are a lot simpler to manage.
    Find an even number fertilizer like  Southern AG All-Purpose Fertilizer 10-10-10

    Fruit trees can get phenomenal growth and bloom with Bone Meal using a quarter cup per gallon of water only once or twice per year.


    Good lighting is a requirement for all citrus. Green leaf drop is the #1 problem caused by a lack of light. Trees get their energy from the sun. If the tree doesn't get enough sunshine then it will start dropping its foliage, which is a vicious cycle, if it doesn't have the energy it requires it will eventually die.

    We recommend a compact fluorescent light (CFL) 5000k grow bulb, which is a full spectrum bulb that promotes overall plant growth. This should be screwed into a reflector, so the light is directed onto the tree and not used just as a bulb in a standard lamp or overhead light. Without the reflector, the light is too dissipated to be of much use. The lights can be purchased as a full set, bulb with the reflector at :
      When purchasing this light be sure it's ONLY the 5000K in the drop-down menu.

    Multiple trees
    If you have multiple trees you might want to consider the Sun Blaze T5 Fluorescent Grow Light.



    The secret of healthy and great-looking trees begins in the soil. If the soil is poor and lacking nutrients the tree will do poorly. Fungus delivers many essential nutrients to the root system of trees and increases drought resistance.  Fungi produce specialized acids and enzymes that break the bonds that bind nutrients to the soil and organic compounds.
    Mycorrhizae Fungi, are the principal structures for most nutrient uptake in the plant kingdom.

    Tree roots and fungi form a symbiotic relationship. The Mycorrhizae Fungi form large networks of fine filamentous growth throughout the soil. The roots and the fungi assist each other with the fungi collecting water and nutrients for the plant's root system and the tree assists the fungi by feeding the fungi sugars.
    Soil Acidifier will help reduce alkalinity for all acid-loving Citrus Trees.


    There are a few simple preventative measures that can help considerably to prevent pest infestation. Trees that have spider mites, aphids, scale, etc need to be completely washed off with sudsy dawn dish soap. Killing the pest is only part of the problem. Honeydew left on the tree will eventually cause the tree to deteriorate. So wash the foliage and then you can treat the tree with Neem Oil.

    A tape barrier is crucial in protecting the tree in the winter. If you have to take your tree indoors in the winter then chances are high you live in an area that has dormant trees outside.
    Consider your outdoor surroundings, are the trees and bushes barren, with no foliage?
    If you get warming temperatures that fluctuate from warm to cold, ants can become active along with spider mites and the only foliage around is your tree.

    Tape barriers are simple. Just wrap a wide piece of Masking Tape around your tree (not the whole tree) Just a section no wider than the width of your tape will do and wipe Tanglefoot on the tape. This will prevent pests from crawling up the tree to get to the foliage.

    I always do a few preventatives to protect my trees. Diatomaceous Earth is also helpful, just sprinkle a small amount on top of the soil. Imagine you are a bug crawling across the soil to get to the tree, if the bug crosses into the Diatomaceous Earth it will get cut up and die of dehydration, so you don't need to use a lot of it.
    I also use Gnat Traps in the event the soil has fungus gnats.
    Mosquito Bits  sprinkled on the soil's surface or mixed with potting soil prior to planting will kill fungus gnats

    If you see fruit flies flying around the foliage, you'll need to wash the tree. Fruit flies and fungus gnats are not the same types of flies.
    Fruit flies are your best friend in the winter, they will let you know if there is honeydew on the foliage, and honeydew is a killer to the tree. Once the honeydew is gone, they will leave also.
    Fungus gnats hang out in the soil, so if the fly isn't mainly interested in the foliage area of the tree, it's a gnat. You can also smear tanglefoot on a bottle that has a small amount of apple cider vinegar in the bottle, they can't resist the Apple Cider Vinegar and will get stuck in the tanglefoot.
    Citrus leaf miners can be a real nuisance. They are larvae that originate from several types of insects such as moths. They lay their eggs on the trees and the young larvae burrow into the leaf, eating the foliage. They are not harmful to the tree but they can make your tree look less attractive. I use Fertilome Fruit Tree Spray which can also be used as a fungicide.



    Brassinolide- This product is for research purposes.

    The Asian citrus psyllid has put the United States Citrus industry in serious jeopardy.
    Citrus Greening is the worst citrus disease in the world and is causing devastation that's spread by this disease-infected insect. The US consumer has little knowledge of this devastating insect that has caused billions of dollars in loss for the Citrus industry and whole abandoned orchards and groves throughout Florida.
    The Asian psyllid pierces through the tree to suck out the sap, and if it is a carrier of the virus it enters the tree and causes long-term damage until eventually, the tree dies.
    The cell walls of the foliage collapse which will not allow foliar sprays to enter the cell walls because the cells are so small the particles cannot enter the cell to be absorbed into the tree.
    If there is an issue with collapsing cells, no foliar sprays will ever help the tree and with collapsing cells eventually, this causes the breakdown of photosynthesis and loss of nutrients.

    The brassinolide causes cell elongation, which expands the cells, allowing the nutrients and sunshine to pass through.
    The brassinolide won't hurt the trees since it is a growth hormone and natural in plants.

    Please keep in mind the Brassinolide product is for research purposes.
    Normally I would not recommend a product that is for research purposes but trees with Citrus Greening survival rate is low, the tree dies within a few years unless measures are taken to save the tree.

    Organic Bactericide, Fungicide, and Insecticide



    When watering the tree properly the soil should be drenched and with the deep-watering method, a lot of water should drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot, which requires a Catch Tray when trees are indoors. I recommend a hard plastic tray that can hold over a gallon of water for larger trees. The tree should be above that catch tray so it doesn't sit in standing water. A Small Plant Stand is helpful in keeping the tree elevated above the drainage tray.

    If you have any questions please contact us at or call

    Happy Growing,








Items 1 to 10 of 18 total

  1. 1
  2. 2