Lowest Prices of the Year: Our Father's Day Sale Ends Wednesday @ Midnight EDT. Plus; Multiple Tree Discount of Up to 15% applies automatically in the cart. ×
866-216-TREE (8733)

You have no items in your shopping cart.

Subtotal: $0.00

Avocado Care


    I wrote the title of this article in caps due to my winter frustration.
    Every winter customers complain about green leaf drop. I brace myself for it by gulping down a strong coffee and wonder why the ugly light I recommend is ignored for a much more attractive option.
    Citrus trees are not houseplants that can adjust to low-light environments.
    When choosing lighting you need to know what you are purchasing.
    Buying lighting based on reviews is not a guarantee that the lighting is going to be adequate because that depends on what you are growing.

    Think: Florida and southern California.
    Be critical of lighting with advertisements with photos of houseplants.
    If you see houseplants in an advertisement for lighting, please move on.
    I don't have to read the specs of lighting to know it is incorrect lighting when the advertiser shows a photo with spider plants. Peace lilies, African violets, Snake plants, Alocasia, Aloe vera, Arrowhead Vine, Corn Plant, Dragon Tree, Dumb Cane, Emerald Gem, Fiddle Leaf Fig, Palms, etc.
    If you see houseplants in the advertisement you need to keep looking. Many houseplants do not need additional lighting as long as you have a sunny room.

    Sunny rooms are not acceptable for Citrus trees, they need full "direct" sunshine for at least 6 hours every day. Citrus trees thrive in lighting and get their energy from the sun, the more (correct) lighting you can give to the tree,  the better the tree will do!
    When choosing lighting the question you need to ask yourself is do you want an attractive tree with an ugly light or an attractive light and ugly tree begging you to give it more light?

    Correct lighting is NOT an adjustable stand on a tripod with multiple pretty wand heads in purple, blue, and red LED lights. Correct lighting is WHITE LIGHT which has all the spectrum of light.
    Daylight starts at 5000K The "K" is for kelvin and tells you the color temperature of light and many false advertisers claim their lights are full spectrum but are listed below the daylight spectrum. If your lighting is not 5000K you're not even giving your tree daylight.
    The higher the spectrum the better the tree will do.
    5000K is your morning sun, 6500K is your afternoon sun.
    The light we recommend is the bare minimum the tree needs.
    Anything below 5000K is not daylight.

    Lumens are also important. The Lumens listed will tell you the brightness of a bulb, so the spectrum of 5000K has all the colors in the prism and you see it as white light. The lumens are the brightness of the lighting, and just like the spectrum the higher the lumens the better the tree will do but the minimum of lumens is 2600. Many advertisements do not even list the lumens.
    The wonderful thing about lumens is you can easily add more lumens by just adding another bulb.

    When adding lighting make sure the light is above the tree about 1 ft and left on 10-12 hours.
    You can upgrade to a nicer light such as a gooseneck floor lamp with multiple heads just make sure you use the white light 5000K bulbs and use all the heads on the floor lamp.

    Our Lighting Recommendations

    We recommend a compact fluorescent light (CFL) 5000k grow bulb, which is a full spectrum bulb that promotes overall plant growth. This should be screwed into a reflector, so the light is directed above the tree about 1-1.5 ft. Without the reflector, the light will be too dissipated to be of much use. The lights can be purchased as a full set, bulb with the reflector at :

    Green Thumb Clamp-on Grow Light
    ITEM #: 5605160

    The AFC greenhouses have the drop-down menu tab in the link. Make sure the 5000K is chosen before ordering.

    The grow lights should be left on for a minimum of 10-12 hours. The light should be placed DIRECTLY above the tree about 1-1.5 ft above it.
    If the tree gets good sunshine and the sunshine is shining directly on the tree for a few hours every day, then you may be able to turn the lights off after 8 hours.
    When lighting is supplemented, turn lights off at night. Plants require day and night.

    There are also other options like a gooseneck floor lamp with daylight bulbs-  Recommended only as a set -bulbs with the gooseneck floor lamp.
    One of these bulbs is not appropriate lighting, you'll need to use at least two of the bulbs that give 3000 lumens
    5 bulbs with the floor lamp is 7500 lumens.




    Many people disregard the ugly option with the reflector and bulb.
    We do not benefit financially in any way by recommending it, or any of these lights.
    I know the reflector is an ugly option. I have a few of them myself.
    You might wonder why I would have those ugly lights since I live in the south.
    Years ago I had the brilliant idea to haul all my trees indoors in the winter because I had to experience what our customers experience so I could educate myself and give customers good tree care that works.

    I experienced the frustration of buying junk lighting for myself on my journey of indoor winter growing. Many lights simply did not work. They were sparkly and interesting with purple, blue, yellow, and red lights and I went through a few options and that can be an expensive endeavor.
    Eventually, I ended up with two of the ugly lights, because I had 10 trees hauled indoors that winter. I was pleasantly surprised and had happy trees all winter.


  • How Do I Treat Damage Caused By Frost & Freezing?

    Water the tree immediately as freezing temperatures pull the moisture out of the tree's roots.
    Wait and determine the extent of damage before pruning in the spring or when the possibility of frost has passed.
    Identify the graft or bud union, and make sure the fruiting wood above the graft is still green and healthy.
    Photo of the graft can be found here:

    If it is viable it should produce new buds in the spring. If all the leaves are brown
    and curled, remove them in the spring and water the tree with a quarter cup of bone meal mixed in a gallon of water for a potted tree.
    It will take a few weeks for the appearance of new buds. After bud break, you can prune the branches if desired.
    Preconditioning helps; trees exposed slowly to cold will fare better than those subjected to a sudden frost. Also, prolonged exposure to cold is more damaging than a brief plunge in temperature. Here are some methods we have used to help protect plants when freezing temperatures may pose a threat.

    Listen for news of cold fronts, and be prepared to take action!
    Water all garden plants thoroughly before a freeze since freezing soil will pull sustaining moisture from the roots.
    Use antitranspirant sprays. Common brands: Anti Stress and Cloud Cover.
    Put old fashioned, heat-producing Christmas lights in the trees or in landscape lighting under the trees. This method often yields excellent results for cold-sensitive lemons and limes.
    Hot bulbs can scorch leaves, so take care to angle them so that they directly touch foliage as little as possible.
    Use frost cover blankets, also known as floating row cover or Remay. This is a spun polyester material designed to cover trees and plants. It can be draped directly on the plants and secured at the ground to trap daytime heat. Unlike plastic covers, it can be left on during the day without fear of overheating the plants. Used in combination with lighting, it is a great way to protect cold-sensitive plants.



    Caring for citrus and fruit trees is easy if you avoid the pitfalls.  This article will break it down in simple and easy steps to help you keep your trees happy and healthy.
    To make it convenient you can just click on the links below that will show you the recommended products.


    Underwatering and overwatering are both detrimental to the tree.
    Citrus Trees prefer infrequent, deep watering. Generally, once a week is all that is needed.
    We strongly recommend utilizing a Moisture Meter for trees grown in pots that reads between 1-10 before watering, because once a week watering could be too much water for a container-grown, indoor tree.
    Once the tree has been watered properly, check the soil with the moisture meter after the water drains to make sure the meter reads 10. This will ensure that the tree has been watered deeply and properly. You will not have to water the tree again until the meter reads 4.
    Do not leave the meter in the pot when not in use.
    Moisture meter for trees grown in the ground


    Do not use these products on fruit trees (Look under the Fruit tree recommended fertilizers)

    I highly recommend Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro. This product helps plants thrive and has nutrients that other fertilizers may not have enough of. I use this product as a foliar spray,  although you can also water the tree with it. The great thing about this product is when using it as a foliage spray, it goes straight to the tree within days, so you don't have to wait to water and feeding through the root system of the tree takes time for nutrients to break down.

    When fertilizing with any of the recommended products, keep in mind that the directions on the bag of fertilizer are directions for trees that are planted in the ground, not for container-grown trees, so be careful not to use too much fertilizer at one time for a potted tree.
    When using Fertilome Fruit, Citrus, and Pecan Tree Food, be careful not to use too much of this product due to its high ratio of nitrogen. The ratio is 19-10-5 so it's a great product to use occasionally. Normally when using the high nitrogen Fertilome Fruit, Citrus, and Pecan Food I'll wait a month and then switch to something that is not so high in nitrogen, such as Espoma Citrus Tone or Fish Emulsion
    Occasionally I'll add Bone Meal mixing a quarter cup to one gallon of water and water the tree with the mixture.  Bone meal will cause the tree to grow and bloom, so it is important to know bloom times.
    For Orange trees, a good time to use the bone meal mixture is mid-February if your tree is indoors and protected from freezing temperatures. Don't overuse bone meal due to the tree's need for nitrogen. Citrus are heavy nitrogen feeders and bone meal has phosphorus.
    Whenever you use bone meal you must supply a nitrogen fertilizer within a few weeks or within a month.
    Sometimes I mix equal parts of bone meal and Blood Meal together (2 tablespoons of each) to 1 gallon of water and water the tree with the mixture since blood meal is a nitrogen product.
    If you are feeding an orange tree,  I would simply use a quarter cup of just the bone meal in February and then in a month use a nitrogen product. This way the tree gets the boost of phosphorus for growth and blooming.

    Orange trees bloom between February through May so the bone meal will give it the boost it needs to bloom just keep in mind it is important to make sure you feed the tree nitrogen fertilizer thereafter so the tree has plenty of nitrogen to produce and grow the fruit.

    Although I have recommended quite a few fertilizers, you can just pick a few of them and add to your stock over time.  Dyna-Gro would be at the top of the list.

    If you ordered the smallest tree then I would transplant the tree after 2 weeks into a larger pot before starting a fertilizing schedule.

    A high nitrogen fertilizer like Fertilome Fruit, Citrus Pecan Food is a good product but be careful when using it for a potted tree, you don't want to use too much with a ratio of 19 on the nitrogen.
    (3 gallons pots) 1 teaspoon every other month
    (7 gallons pots) 1 tablespoon every other month
    (10 gallons pots) 2 tablespoons every other month.

    On the months you skip you can choose 
    Blood Meal,
    Fish Emulsion
    Citrus Tone

    so you'll be feeding the tree something monthly, Just use the same ratio above for the pot sizes, the fish emulsion needs to be diluted in water.
    Since trees are living things I try to consider the fact that I would not want to eat the same meal every day. After a while, my favorite meal would not be my favorite anymore.
    So I try to consider that when feeding my trees and give them some variety.
    Also, please keep in mind, your tree is trapped in a pot, like a fish in a fishbowl and it cannot get nutrients unless you provide them. If we fed our fish the same way we fed our trees, in many cases the fish would be floating belly up.

    For trees planted in the ground please follow the directions on the bag and if your winter is cold stop fertilizing in mid-September.



    Fertilizing Fruit trees like Olive, Figs, Persimmon, and Pomegranate are a lot simpler to manage.
    Find an even number fertilizer like  Southern AG All-Purpose Fertilizer 10-10-10

    Fruit trees can get phenomenal growth and bloom with Bone Meal using a quarter cup per gallon of water only once or twice per year.


    Good lighting is a requirement for all citrus. Green leaf drop is the #1 problem caused by a lack of light. Trees get their energy from the sun. If the tree doesn't get enough sunshine then it will start dropping its foliage, which is a vicious cycle, if it doesn't have the energy it requires it will eventually die.

    We recommend a compact fluorescent light (CFL) 5000k grow bulb, which is a full spectrum bulb that promotes overall plant growth. This should be screwed into a reflector, so the light is directed onto the tree and not used just as a bulb in a standard lamp or overhead light. Without the reflector, the light is too dissipated to be of much use. The lights can be purchased as a full set, bulb with the reflector at :
      When purchasing this light be sure it's ONLY the 5000K in the drop-down menu.

    Multiple trees
    If you have multiple trees you might want to consider the Sun Blaze T5 Fluorescent Grow Light.



    The secret of healthy and great-looking trees begins in the soil. If the soil is poor and lacking nutrients the tree will do poorly. Fungus delivers many essential nutrients to the root system of trees and increases drought resistance.  Fungi produce specialized acids and enzymes that break the bonds that bind nutrients to the soil and organic compounds.
    Mycorrhizae Fungi, are the principal structures for most nutrient uptake in the plant kingdom.

    Tree roots and fungi form a symbiotic relationship. The Mycorrhizae Fungi form large networks of fine filamentous growth throughout the soil. The roots and the fungi assist each other with the fungi collecting water and nutrients for the plant's root system and the tree assists the fungi by feeding the fungi sugars.
    Soil Acidifier will help reduce alkalinity for all acid-loving Citrus Trees.


    There are a few simple preventative measures that can help considerably to prevent pest infestation. Trees that have spider mites, aphids, scale, etc need to be completely washed off with sudsy dawn dish soap. Killing the pest is only part of the problem. Honeydew left on the tree will eventually cause the tree to deteriorate. So wash the foliage and then you can treat the tree with Neem Oil.

    A tape barrier is crucial in protecting the tree in the winter. If you have to take your tree indoors in the winter then chances are high you live in an area that has dormant trees outside.
    Consider your outdoor surroundings, are the trees and bushes barren, with no foliage?
    If you get warming temperatures that fluctuate from warm to cold, ants can become active along with spider mites and the only foliage around is your tree.

    Tape barriers are simple. Just wrap a wide piece of Masking Tape around your tree (not the whole tree) Just a section no wider than the width of your tape will do and wipe Tanglefoot on the tape. This will prevent pests from crawling up the tree to get to the foliage.

    I always do a few preventatives to protect my trees. Diatomaceous Earth is also helpful, just sprinkle a small amount on top of the soil. Imagine you are a bug crawling across the soil to get to the tree, if the bug crosses into the Diatomaceous Earth it will get cut up and die of dehydration, so you don't need to use a lot of it.
    I also use Gnat Traps in the event the soil has fungus gnats.
    Mosquito Bits  sprinkled on the soil's surface or mixed with potting soil prior to planting will kill fungus gnats

    If you see fruit flies flying around the foliage, you'll need to wash the tree. Fruit flies and fungus gnats are not the same types of flies.
    Fruit flies are your best friend in the winter, they will let you know if there is honeydew on the foliage, and honeydew is a killer to the tree. Once the honeydew is gone, they will leave also.
    Fungus gnats hang out in the soil, so if the fly isn't mainly interested in the foliage area of the tree, it's a gnat. You can also smear tanglefoot on a bottle that has a small amount of apple cider vinegar in the bottle, they can't resist the Apple Cider Vinegar and will get stuck in the tanglefoot.
    Citrus leaf miners can be a real nuisance. They are larvae that originate from several types of insects such as moths. They lay their eggs on the trees and the young larvae burrow into the leaf, eating the foliage. They are not harmful to the tree but they can make your tree look less attractive. I use Fertilome Fruit Tree Spray which can also be used as a fungicide.



    Brassinolide- This product is for research purposes.

    The Asian citrus psyllid has put the United States Citrus industry in serious jeopardy.
    Citrus Greening is the worst citrus disease in the world and is causing devastation that's spread by this disease-infected insect. The US consumer has little knowledge of this devastating insect that has caused billions of dollars in loss for the Citrus industry and whole abandoned orchards and groves throughout Florida.
    The Asian psyllid pierces through the tree to suck out the sap, and if it is a carrier of the virus it enters the tree and causes long-term damage until eventually, the tree dies.
    The cell walls of the foliage collapse which will not allow foliar sprays to enter the cell walls because the cells are so small the particles cannot enter the cell to be absorbed into the tree.
    If there is an issue with collapsing cells, no foliar sprays will ever help the tree and with collapsing cells eventually, this causes the breakdown of photosynthesis and loss of nutrients.

    The brassinolide causes cell elongation, which expands the cells, allowing the nutrients and sunshine to pass through.
    The brassinolide won't hurt the trees since it is a growth hormone and natural in plants.

    Please keep in mind the Brassinolide product is for research purposes.
    Normally I would not recommend a product that is for research purposes but trees with Citrus Greening survival rate is low, the tree dies within a few years unless measures are taken to save the tree.

    Organic Bactericide, Fungicide, and Insecticide



    When watering the tree properly the soil should be drenched and with the deep-watering method, a lot of water should drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot, which requires a Catch Tray when trees are indoors. I recommend a hard plastic tray that can hold over a gallon of water for larger trees. The tree should be above that catch tray so it doesn't sit in standing water. A Small Plant Stand is helpful in keeping the tree elevated above the drainage tray.

    If you have any questions please contact us at support@lemoncitrustree.com or call

    Happy Growing,








  • How Do I Select The Best Container For my Citrus Tree?

    Soggy wet roots are the leading cause of problems with container grown citrus trees. Many of those problems can be eliminated with careful container choices and a moisture meter that can prevent over-watering.
    The Deep Watering Method is the proper watering method, directions can be found here:

    Clay pots are classic but heavy choices. If you live in the southern part of the country, you may want to avoid the clay pots, as they dry out very quickly and you'll spend a significant amount of time watering in hot summers. If you plan on using clay be sure the mouth of the pot is as wide or wider than the pot itself, avoid the spherical pots with the mouth of the pot curving inward, these tend to be wide and shallow and don't have the depth needed for the deep root growth and if you ever need to transplant you may have trouble getting the root ball out if the opening of the pot is smaller than the width of the whole pot.

    Wood containers degrade over time, allowing roots to grow into cracks and have irregular surfaces, making it harder to transplant. While transplanting you may be ripping roots out between cracks to dislodge them, so avoid the wood and look for something comparable like a plastic barrel that you can drill additional holes in. Many plastic barrels look very similar to the wood barrels.

    The self-watering pots are NEVER recommended for Citrus trees. Citrus require infrequent deep watering, so self-watering pots do not allow for this. The self-watering type can cause overly wet roots. Also, pots that have the catch tray or saucers attached are not recommended, trees do not like "wet feet" and those types of pots can cause root rot.

    Cloth container pots are not recommended. The cloth can become misshapen over time as the soil settles. During the watering process, some of the soil may relocate in the pot, and this can cause the tree to eventually tip out of its container since the soil is not held firmly into place with solid sturdy sides. The cloth pots just do not work well because they are far too flexible allowing the soil to reshape the pot during the deep watering process, which will cause the tree to tip out because it has nothing sturdy to hold the soil in place.

    Hard plastic pots come in a wide selection of designs and colors, making them the ideal choice for citrus trees. When choosing a pot, be sure you can actually see drainage holes in the bottom, if not it is the wrong pot. The sides should be sturdy and the plastic strong enough to drill additional holes in the bottom if needed.
    Plastic pots are easier to handle and more lightweight than clay and resistant to breakage.
    Four to five large (3/4"-1") holes are the minimum necessary for adequate drainage. Select a pot that makes it easy to inspect your tree or re-pot if needed. Smooth tapered sides with a wide mouth at the top work the best. Avoid shapes that are narrow at the top or other designs that would impede the root ball from easily sliding out.

    Do not add stones or gravel in the bottom of the container. Elevate the container pot off the drainage-tray or ground to allow the water to exit the container after watering. Water according to pot size and do not go beyond a 10-gallon container.

    For more transplanting information: https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/citrus-tree-care-containers


  • Deep Watering Method For Potted Citrus Trees

    Trees will die without the essential requirements. Incorrect watering is the most common cause of issues and tree death.

    Deep Watering Method

    1. Check the tree with a moisture meter before watering. (The meter's range should be from 1-10)
    2. The prong should be deep into the pot.
    3. Only water when the meter reads 4.
    4. All trees require deep watering. Deep watering is drenching the soil until water pours from the holes at the bottom of the pot.
    5. Watering with a few cups is not acceptable, this will cause deep roots to die. Never be stingy with the water when the tree needs to be watered.
    6. Once the tree has been watered properly, recheck the moisture level again to make sure the meter reads high (9 or 10) and then do not water again until the meter reads 4.
    7. In the winter you will water far less, about twice a month (But always check the tree with a meter weekly because this can vary)
    8. The meter should never be left in the pot when not in use.
    9. Never water with cold water in the winter
    10. Never water the tree with water from a water softener.
    A space between the bottom of the pot and the tray that catches the water is required.


  • Reality Check. LCT versus competitors online claiming to sell "trees".


    Our company has been in business since 2004. Not a whole lot of people realize that when they visit our website. We were the first citrus farm on the internet. We started as a small family farm and even though we have grown some, we are still a small family farm. We genuinely care about all of our customers, some of them have been coming to us for years because they know we sell quality trees. We wanted to share on our blog a recent post by one of our customers to our facebook page. We hear of horror stories like this a lot and feel genuinely bad for our customers who get tricked by super low pricing and pictures of trees that look nothing like the companies actually sell.

    So here is a comparison of one of our customers who purchased a Hass Avocado from us AFTER he purchased from one of our "competitors".


    That's ours on the right, just after he unboxed it. Can you see the other "tree"?

    We hate that our customers are ripped off by other companies. We sell real trees that are grown by world renown experts that have been doing this for generations. We realize it's time to get aggressive and expose this fraud to hopefully protect others from falling into the same trap.

    If you have already purchased one of these trees from another company and are having a hard time keeping it alive, just send us an email at support@lemoncitrustree.com with a photo of the tree. We will try our best to help, just some trees can't be saved when they are raised in such poor conditions.

    Hope everyone has a great weekend. Take care & thanks for reading!




    p.s. We have a discount till next Friday! Use the code: nosticks for $8 dollars off your order. Have a HAPPY LABOR DAY WEEKEND!

  • Bugs on Citrus; Friend or Foe?

    Most people who see any bug in the garden automatically assume that it is a “bad bug" or harming their plants.

    It’s really important to know the difference between the good, the bad and those that aren't quite so attractive.

    I always recommend people wash their trees a few times during the summer when they fertilize, as a pest preventative.

    Washing with dawn dish soap and warm water with a washcloth helps if there is honeydew on the leaves.

    Presently I have a spider that has decided to make himself a home in my Meyer Lemon. He popped out of the thick foliage and introduced himself in late spring, when I fertilized the trees and was doing the normal washing of the trees.

    I named him Eli and decided he can stay as long as he wishes. I left Eli’s home alone and moved on to washing the other trees. Eli is protecting my tree from predatory insects.

    Interesting enough, of all my citrus trees, the one tree that Eli has taken residence in, is the healthiest of all my trees.

    I made the right decision in allowing him to stay, so he gets free room and board. I just wish the rest of his family would have joined him in moving into the trees next to him.

    Right next to Eli's tree, is a tree that had a recent visitor,  the infamous leaf miner.

    Although admittedly Eli's family may not have been able to prevent the mining operation that is ongoing,  one can hope Eli was on his toes, because no mining operation is occurring in his home.

    The little guy you allow to live, could be the best of all preventatives.

    Please make certain the bug you kill is your enemy, because predators can do a better job of protecting your investment, because they are on guard 24/7.

    Moral to the story, distinguish between Friend and Foe.

7 Item(s)