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Ordering & Basic Info

Q

Can You Ship To My State?

A

We sell Dwarf varieties of Citrus & Fruit Trees. Dwarf Citrus & Fruit Trees are typically grown in containers that allow for proper care year round. Our Trees are usually kept as houseplants and are a very popular gift to send instead of chocolates or cut flowers. With proper care, our trees can live up to 50 years! With our three year warranty (Some Restrictions Apply), you can rest assured that you are ordering a tree that will be around for a long time to come. Our trees are available for shipping to the Continental United States only. We cannot ship any Citrus Tree to the State of Arizona, if you would like to order a Dwarf tree and must ship to Arizona, please select a non-citrus variety such as Persimmon or Avocado. Certain varieties of Trees are unavailable in some states, please review the product description thoroughly. If a tree product description says that it is not available in your state, please do not attempt to order that tree. Instead look to see if the tree is available in a different size or select a different variety. We cannot make exceptions on our shipping policies (we would if we could) as doing so is actually illegal due to USDA regulations. Citrus in the United States is highly regulated by the USDA. It is recommended that you save any tags that are received with the tree, especially your USDA permit tag. Lemon Citrus Tree 866-216-TREE (8733)

Q

Do I Live In The Right Zone?

A

Click on the link provided and enter your zip code.  USDA's Interactive Hardiness Zone Map, just Click Here.   The information is the most recent released by the USDA. Please be aware that the information does not account for record highs or lows, these are just average temperatures. We do not recommend planting in the ground for zones 8 or less. Our warranty only covers trees that are planted in the ground in zones 9-11. If you live in any other zone: we recommend that you keep your dwarf tree in a container, so it can be brought inside during cooler temperatures. On average, most of our dwarf trees will go into hibernation when the temperatures reach below 50 degrees Fahrenheit and most varieties will die if the temperatures are below freezing for long periods of time. All of our trees can be kept as house plants during the cold weather months (and during the warm months too) and do well when provided with adequate light, water, and fertilization. Lemon Citrus Tree 866-216-TREE (8733)

Q

Do You Ship During The Cold Winter Months?

A

While we would love to be able to ship every tree out right away, sometimes the cold weather makes it impossible for us to do so. Citrus Trees do not fair well with freezing temperatures, so sometimes we have to hold an order and wait for the temperatures to improve. If we have held your order due to cold weather, it is based on the temperatures of your local area and the transit route. Once your weather improves, the order will ship. We ship with heat packs for any questionable areas. If you would like more information regarding this, please login to your customer account and create a ticket or call us at 866-216-TREE (8733)

Q

When Will My Order Be Shipped?

A

We ship each week on Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday for the previous week's orders. Our cut off for shipping is Sunday at 11:59pm EST. If you need assistance with figuring out when your tree will arrive, please login to your customer account and create a ticket or call us at 866-216-TREE (8733). We ship via Ground Service only, most states ship UPS, while a few ship FedEx and USPS. Once your order has shipped you will receive a confirmation via email with your tracking number and the carrier information. You can also log into your customer account to see the status of your order, open a ticket and retrieve your tracking number if needed.

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Growing Dwarf Citrus Essential Tips

Q

How Do I Treat Damage Caused By Frost & Freezing?

A

Water the tree immediately as freezing temperatures pull the moisture out of the tree's roots.  Wait and determine the extent of damage before pruning in the spring or when the possibility of frost has passed. Identify the graft or bud union, and make sure the fruiting wood above the graft is still green and healthy. If it is viable it should produce new buds in the spring. If all the leaves are brown and curled, remove them and water the tree with a quarter cup of bone meal mixed in a gallon of water. If the tree is viable it will take a few weeks for the appearance of new buds. After bud break you can prune the branches if desired.

Q

What Are The Citrus Tree Preparations For Frost?

A

Preconditioning helps; trees exposed slowly to cold will fare better than those subjected to a sudden frost. Also, prolonged exposure to cold is more damaging than a brief plunge in temperature. Here are some methods we have used to help protect plants when freezing temperatures may pose a threat. Listen for news of cold fronts, and be prepared to take action! Water all garden plants thoroughly before a freeze, since freezing soil will pull sustaining moisture from the roots. Use anti-transpirant sprays. Common brands: Anti Stress and Cloud Cover. Put old fashioned, heat-producing Christmas lights in the trees or in landscape lighting under the trees. This method often yields excellent results for cold-sensitive lemons and limes. Hot bulbs can scorch leaves, so take care to angle them so that they directly touch foliage as little as possible. Use frost cover blankets, also known as floating row cover or Remay. This is a spun polyester material designed to cover trees and plants. It can be draped directly on the plants and secured at the ground to trap daytime heat. Unlike plastic covers, it can be left on during the day without fear of overheating the plants. Used in combination with lighting, it is a great way to protect cold-sensitive plants.

Q

What Is The Productivity & Ripening Time For Citrus?

A

Once the trees are about 3 years old, they are mature enough to handle fruit production without impacting branch and foliage growth. Often younger trees will bloom in the spring; however, we recommend pinching the blooms off to let the tree develop branches, roots and leaves to better support fruit production later. For lemons and limes, the time from bloom to edible fruit is generally 6-9 months. For winter oranges and other citrus, it is generally 12 months. Keep in mind that all citrus fruits only ripen on the tree. The best way to determine ripeness is to pick a fruit and sample it, since rind color can be an unreliable indicator.  Average Crop Yield In appropriate climates, a mature Dwarf Citrus tree planted in the ground can produce about 2/3 as much fruit as a full sized standard citrus tree in the ground. Some varieties "hold" fruit well on the tree for extended periods, while others need to be picked promptly, because fruit quality will deteriorate quickly after ripening.

Q

What's The Proper Way To Water My Citrus Tree?

A

In the ground, water deeply once a week. In outdoor containers,(always water for pot size) -the larger the pot the more water it will need -water deeply once or twice a week. Indoors, water deeply once a week or every other week. Please bear in mind that each environment (micro-climate) is unique, so it is important to monitor your plants. What your tree requires in the hot summer temperatures, is not what it will require when it is indoors for the winter. Keep in mind your location in the country matters! Think Florida or sunny southern California before you pick-up the water hose. You may live in Montana or Michigan and for you the summer is a blistering 85 degrees Fahrenheit, but Citrus are tropical plants and growers are in the tropical and subtropical regions of the USA. Citrus trees love the climate of Florida and California, so keep this is mind and don't over water. A simple tool takes the guesswork out of watering and I highly recommend a moisture meter that reads from 1-10 Place the prong deep into the soil and water on 4-Then after watering check the soil again and make sure the meter reads 10. This tool is very valuable in measuring moisture deep into the pot. Never leave the meter in the pot when not in use. Mulching will help retain moisture and nutrients in the soil where roots are active. But these should only be used in very warm climates in the south, not advisable to add coco fiber and mulch to potting mixes if you live in the northern areas of the United States and have to take your tree indoors for the winter. The added fiber and mulch will cause the tree to not dry out properly indoors, so it is best to avoid them. Trees that are watered excessively will often show yellowing leaves. For indoor trees you'll need a proper set-up to water the tree correctly without a lot of work. You can read more here- https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/citrus-blog/2016/12/16/easy-setup-ideas-for-indoor-citrus-trees/

Q

When To Fertilize My Citrus Tree?

A

Since citrus trees are heavy nitrogen feeders, make sure your fertilizer contains more nitrogen (N) than phosphorous (P) and potassium (K). Use at least a 2-1-1 (N:P:K) ratio. or 3-1-1 ratio. Nitrogen is always listed first on all fertilizers and Citrus requires it for fruiting. Many all-purpose products will work, as long as nitrogen is the highest element in the ratio. You should start the fertilizing program once you have had the tree a month. Trace minerals such as iron, zinc, and manganese are also important, so make sure those are included in your fertilizing schedule. Foliar applications ( applying liquid fertilizer directly to their leaves)  of trace minerals may be derived from kelp or other soluble fertilizers, such as Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro. Follow rates on the package carefully as fertilizers come in different strengths, release rates, and application schedules. Yellowing leaves indicate a lack of fertilizer, poor drainage, a pest or overwatering.  Dark lush green leaves with burned tips indicate excessive fertilizing, or a lack of moisture. NEVER use fertilizer stakes in a pot, these can burn roots, even to the point of killing immature trees. Quality organic fertilizers are available in granular form, which can simply be applied to the soil surface or mixed in water. Container grown trees require more fertilizing because when watering,  valuable nutrients get washed out of the pot, so a regular fertilizing schedule is important. Trees in pots simply cannot get the required nutrients unless you provide them. For fertilizing suggestions read our blog-  Feeding Recipe For A Happy Tree https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/citrus-blog/2015/08/11/feeding-recipe-for-a-happy-tree/

Q

Why Should I Prune My Citrus Tree?

A

Citrus may be pruned to any desired shape. Pruning is fine any time of year, except in the winter for outdoor trees. Pinching back tips of new growth is the best way to round out the trees without impacting future fruit. Citrus will look fuller with occasional pruning to shape leggy branches. Very leggy branches indicate the need for more light. Some trees may develop erratic juvenile growth above the graft. If so, prune for shape and balance. Any growth above the graft can eventually bear fruit. Pruning to Optimize Fullness & Fruit Production  Any branch with fruit is putting its energy into fruit production. Prune the other branches now, make the pruning cut just above a leaf without leaving a stub. If you take off more than 1/3 of the length, the tree will make multiple branches at the pruning cut, thereby making the tree more full. Pruning Container-Grown Trees  Pinch new growth when small to keep the tree in bounds for optimal container growing. The degree of pruning will depend on the desired size of the tree.

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Dwarf Citrus Indoor Growing

Q

Can I Grow Dwarf Citrus Hydroponically?

A

Citrus trees may be challenging to grow in hydroponic conditions. However, in certain circumstances, the effort may be worthwhile. As long as growing conditions match the needs of citrus trees; hydroponic growing might be an option. The tree will require full sun (8 hours a day minimum), adequate nitrogen and trace minerals. It should be possible to grow hydroponically, however, we currently do not have concrete guidance to offer about this specific growing technique. Lemon Citrus Tree 866-216-TREE (8733)

Q

How do I Provide Proper Humidity Levels?

A

Adequate humidity and light are essential to keep indoor citrus trees healthy. Cooler rooms of the home typically have higher humidity in the winter. Make sure your trees receive as much full sun exposure during the winter months as possible. Add lighting to supplement in the winter. Humidity can be increased in rooms in a number of ways. Leaves respond well to a light misting of pure water from a spray bottle or humidifier. You can also place trays of pebbles and water near the base of trees to increase ambient humidity in the growing area. Efforts to increase indoor ambient humidity levels can be especially helpful to citrus trees during the cold dry months. Make sure plants are not near forced air heating ducts or appliances that generate heat. Remember that citrus like moist soil, but not water-logged roots, so do not let misting turn into over watering. Also make sure that the bottom of the pot does not sit in drainage water, to prevent overwet root issues. Please read our information on proper watering in this FAQ section.

Q

How To Grow Dwarf Citrus Indoors & Outdoors?

A

Container-grown citrus trees can be kept on patios and decks in warm weather, then moved inside to avoid frost damage in winter. To avoid shocking your tree with a sudden change of environment, move it gradually. Place the tree in partial shade for a week or so, to make the transition from full sun outdoors to partial sun indoors. For an indoor Citrus you'll need to supplement lighting. If your tree will receive less than 6 hours of full sun per day indoors, it is best to supplement with grow lights. Adequate sun exposure is important for fruit production. We recommend a 5000K full spectrum bulb (with reflector) which promotes overall plant growth. We recommend that you use the light 10 hours per day. Read the recommendations for indoor Citrus here- https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/citrus-blog/2015/10/05/winter-recommendations-for-inside-citrus/

Q

What Are The Best Citrus Varieties For Growing Indoors?

A

By far, the Meyer Lemon is the most popular. Like all the lemons, it is easy to grow, prolific and does not need a lot of heat to ripen the fruit. The Meyer is slightly sweeter than the classic commercial varieties (Eureka). Its soft skin develops an orange hue when fruit is fully ripe, and its distinctive, mystical flavor combines lemon with a hint of tangerine. The Meyer lemon can be very productive, even indoors. Kaffir Lime leaves are used extensively in Thai and Cambodian cooking, and zest of the fruit is an ingredient in some curry paste recipes. Keep your Kaffir lime tree close at hand in a sunny window and you'll be able to create authentic recipes year-round. Calamondin (Kalamansi) is a diminutive tree originating in the Philippines. It's ornamental form, fragrant blooms and small tart orange-colored fruits have made it a favorite for centuries. The sour juice of ripe fruits can be used in salad dressings and other recipes.

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Dwarf Citrus Commonly Asked Questions

Q	Are Citrus Tree Leaves Edible?
A	Any Thai cookbook that alludes to the use of citrus leaves really means Kaffir (Kieffer) Lime leaves. The only citrus leaves used with regularity in a wide array of favorite Thai dishes. The luscious perfume and striking flavor of the leaves cannot be easily substituted with other kinds of citrus leaves. Lemon Citrus Tree 866-216-TREE (8733)

Q

Can I Determine Ripeness By The Color Of The Fruit?

A

Cooling nighttime temperatures trigger the appearance of orange and yellow hues in the rinds of citrus fruits. In temperate climates that have gradually cooling nighttime temperatures toward winter, fruit coloration is generally a good indicator of ripeness. In tropical climates and also in many indoor growing situations, fruit coloration may not be the best indicator of ripeness because the tree is not receiving the necessary climactic cues for fruit coloring. This is why the Key lime is harvested green in the more tropical areas of Mexico and Florida where it is grown commercially. These limes are ripe when picked, even though they are still green. Limes in California and other areas that receive cooler temperatures during the ripening season will actually turn yellow when ready to pick. Like most citrus, lemons are green as they develop, then turn gradually to yellow when ripe. (Extremely ripe Meyer lemons actually take on a lovely orange hue.) Once mature, most lemon varieties will hang on the tree for several months, slowly growing larger and developing thicker skins. When coloration is not a reliable indicator, ripeness can be determined with other methods. Look for the development of a dusky appearance on the rind of ripe fruits. The final determinant of ripeness will be how the fruit tastes. Sampling is often the most reliable indicator of when to harvest. Remember that citrus will not ripen further once picked. More information on green fruit and fruit drop here- https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/citrus-blog/2017/08/23/did-i-get-a-lime-tree-why-is-my-citrus-fruit-still-green/ Lemon Citrus Tree 866-216-TREE (8733)

Q

Can I Grow Citrus From Seed?

A

You can grow Citrus from seed if you have the patience and are willing to wait decades for fruit. Planting citrus from seeds are fairly easy to grow, but the resultant tree and fruit quality may be disappointing. Instead of growing from seed, we use grafted cuttings of well-matched proven varieties - combinations that reach maturity and fruitfulness faster. We produce quality fruiting trees that are guaranteed true to type. Lemon Citrus Tree 866-216-TREE (8733)

Q

Can I Prune The Thorns On My Citrus Tree?

A

Thorns are removed from rootstocks when citrus trees are propagated. As the young trees grow, it is not unusual to see thorns on the juvenile fruiting (scion) wood. This is a young plant's way of defending against grazing animals. Usually, as the tree matures, thorniness of the fruiting wood decreases. Thorns may be pruned off without harming productive potential. Growth from the rootstock will always tend to be thornier than the fruiting wood. If all of the foliage appears to be thorny, check to be certain that a rootstock sucker has not taken over. All growth below the graft line should be removed. Be sure to keep all rootstock suckers trimmed off as they appear so that the energy essential for fruiting is all directed to the fruiting wood. Lemon Citrus Tree 866-216-TREE (8733)

Q

Can I Use Mulch With My Citrus Tree?

A

For planted trees, liberal use of mulches will conserve precious water and help inhibit weed growth. A 2-3 inch layer of redwood shavings, fir bark, compost, or other organic matter can be very helpful for water retention for a tree planted in the ground. Mulches and coco fiber, fir bark should not be used in a potted tree. To avoid root diseases, always keep grasses and other vegetation about 5-6ft away from the tree, they can rob a tree of vital nutrients and moisture. Keep all mulches at least six inches away from the base of the trunk. Piling soil and mulches on the base of the truck can cause it to rot away from the rootball.   We do not recommend the use of Mulch when you are growing in a container or anything that helps retain moisture for potted trees. Lemon Citrus Tree 866-216-TREE (8733)

Q

How do I Pollinate by Hand?

A

Generally, citrus trees (grown indoors or out) are self fruitful and do not require pollination. Some people enjoy pollinating their trees, and this can be done using a small soft brush or cotton swab to transfer the pollen among flowers. Some mandarin varieties are more productive with a pollinator, but the tradeoff is usually more seediness. If you grow two different citrus trees next to each other, fruit may or may not flower concurrently, allowing cross pollination. Regardless of whether pollination occurs, the tree's fruit will be true to variety type.

Q

How Do I Protect My Tree From Too Much Heat & Sunburn?

A

In areas where intense sun and heat may scorch your tree, precautions should be taken to reduce damage. Trunks can be wrapped using appropriate materials available at garden supply stores. Another method is to mix a 50:50 solution of white latex paint and water. Use the dilute paint to whitewash trunks and exposed branches. One application is usually sufficient for a summer of sunburn protection. The roots of potted citrus trees may also become overheated due to excessive sun exposure. One solution is to nest the pot into a larger one which will buffer heat on the roots. Whitewashing the pot with white latex may also be a viable solution in certain circumstances. Another solution is to provide afternoon shading in the hottest summer months, using shade cloth or a temporary structure.

Q

How Do I Select The Best Containers?

A

Overly wet roots are the leading cause of problems of container grown citrus. Many of those problems can be minimized with careful container choices and a moisture meter that can prevent over watering. Clay pots and wooden containers are classic but heavy choices. If you live in the southern part of the country, you may want to avoid the clay pots, as they dry out very quickly and you'll spend a large amount of time watering your tree is the hot summers. Black plastic single walled pots when exposed to the sun can allow excessive heat in the soil. Wooden containers degrade, allow roots to grow into cracks and have irregular surfaces, making it harder to transplant. Modern plastic pots come in a wide selection of designs and colors, making them the ideal choice for citrus culture. Plastic containers are easy to drill with extra holes, are easy to handle, and resistant to breakage.   Four to five large (3/4"-1") holes are the minimum necessary for adequate drainage. We don't recommend the "self watering" designs which can cause overly wet roots.   Select a pot that makes it easy to inspect your tree or repot if needed. Smooth tapered sides work the best. Avoid shapes that are narrow at the top or other designs that would impede the root ball from easily sliding out.    Do not put stones or gravel in the bottom of the container. Elevate the container pot off the catch-tray or ground to allow the water to exit the container after watering. Water according to pot size and do not go beyond a 10 gallon container.

Q

How Do I Transplant My Citrus Tree?

A

When you see roots showing through the drainage holes, then it is time to repot. Put the approximate amount of new soil in the bottom of the new container with 5 or more drainage holes. Tip the container the tree is in on its side, rotating to free the root / soil ball. If the pot is plastic you can squeeze the side a bit to pull the tree out of the old pot. Grasp trunk at soil line, tip the old pot down, and slide it off. Quickly support the root mass. Some root breakage is inevitable, so don't worry. The roots should be pale and firm, visible at the edge of the soil ball. Gently loosen bottom and outer roots with fingers, prune off dead or very dense, circling roots. Put enough new potting soil mix in the bottom of the new pot to raise the top roots to within 1"-2" of the lip of the pot. If you place the tree inside the pot and it falls deep into the new pot, remove the tree and add more soil. NEVER add soil to the top portion of the root crown. Photo of root crown area - https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/pest-disease Holding the tree by the trunk to support it add soil mix around the perimeter sides until the soil has reached the level to the old soil line. Water the tree. If overwatering caused root rot, the roots will be brown and slimy. If so, prune them back to firm, healthy tissue. Make sure you prune an equal part of the foliage when you do root pruning. Prune foliage to balance roots and top. Use a moisture meter so you can avoid over watering in the future. Check out proper watering here on the FAQ section titled- What's the proper way to Water my Citrus Tree?  Use Vitamin B-1 rooting tonic in the first few waterings if desired, to help fine feeder roots recover quicker. It will be a while before new foliage forms, as the roots will grow first.

Q	What Are The Best Citrus Varieties For Bonsai?
A	Bonsai is the art of growing miniature tree specimens in very small containers. If you are interested in trying to grow citrus trees in bonsai form it is best to choose varieties that are naturally diminutive. Some good variety choices include those with naturally small leaves and fruit, such as Nagami kumquat, Calamondin & Key Limes.

Q

What Are The Citrus Heat & Fruit Ripening Requirements?

A

Citrus like sun! At least six hours of full sun per day is required. For best productivity provide 8 or more hours of full sun per day. Of course, the sun is much hotter in some areas than in others, so the overall intensity of the sun will also play a role. As a general rule, sour fruits need less heat to ripen than sweet-fruited varieties. Here are some general guidelines by variety: Lemons and limes require the least heat to ripen, making them excellent choices for cool-summer areas. The Washington Navel orange has the highest frost tolerance of the sweet oranges. Washington is primarily grown in California's climate zones where there are cool winter nights followed by warm days to pump the sugars into the fruit. Grapefruits require intense, prolonged heat to ripen fully. (Heat causes pigmented grapefruits and pummelos to develop their distinctive red colors.) Grapefruit-pummelo hybrids like Oro Blanco are better suited to more moderate areas, sweetening in the San Francisco Bay Area and other coastal climates. Tangerines and kumquats require high heat for best flavor. Kumquats are among the most frost tolerant of all citrus. Keep in mind that all citrus fruits only ripen on the tree. Ripeness is best judged by sampling flavor, though rind color and time of year can also be good indicators.

Q

What Causes Excessive Production Of Blooms & Fruit?

A

Excessive blooming, or the production of many blossoms followed by leaf drop is often a sign of serious stress in citrus trees. A tree that senses that it is "in trouble" will flower and set fruit excessively, its a cry for help.  The mass blooming is the tree trying to get your attention so you should always inspect the tree whenever you have a massive bloom. 1. The tree could have a pest, inspect the tree carefully 2. The tree could have wind stress, high winds can cause a massive bloom. Move the tree away from excessive wind. 3. The tree could be root bound in the pot and it's rootball is drying out for lack of nutrients. 4. Make certain you are watering correctly, Citrus trees require a deep soaking-however infrequently and a moisture meter helps determine when to water. Citrus trees produce many times the amount of flowers that will ever eventually set fruit.  A small percentage of the flowers produced by a citrus tree results in fruit. The small fruit that are set, most will be discarded by the tree. Only the amount of fruit that the tree is capable of bringing to maturity are retained

Q

Why Are My Lemons And Citrus Fruit Still Green?

A

All Citrus Fruit (Including Meyer Lemons) will be green for about 8-9 months after they bud. Then it will take an additional 2-3 months to fully ripen and turn to their respective color. The Meyer Lemon ripened fruit color of the yellowish/orangish tint happens in the last month of their maturation process. When it has that nice orange tint (that is when they are the sweetest) then it is ready to be harvested. Also, Citrus fruit only ripens on the vine and consequently, if picked still green it will stop the ripening process and will be more sour than normal.  You can read more on green fruit and fruit drop here- https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/citrus-blog/2017/08/23/did-i-get-a-lime-tree-why-is-my-citrus-fruit-still-green/

Q

Why Is My Citrus Fruit Deformed?

A

Deformed fruit can be a sign of citrus bud mite infestation. Lemon trees seem to be particularly susceptible. The original damage occurs when the bud mite feeds on the tiny developing fruit.  Damage becomes more obvious as the fruit grows. Citrus bud mite, spider mites, citrus thrips and many other pests can be controlled by spraying light horticultural oil or neem oil before and during bloom times. For a potted tree we recommend washing the leaves, as pests will spray honeydew on leaves and eventually photosynthesis breaks down killing the tree with leaf drop and branch die-back. Because ants farm and protect pests, it is important to prevent ants from accessing citrus trees. Infestations can often be controlled by using targeted ant baits and tape barriers around the trunk of your citrus.. Do not allow ants to nest in citrus pots. Read more here on what you can do to prevent pests and treatment- https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/pest-disease

Q

Why Is My Tree Growing Oversized Leaves?

A

If new leaf growth on your tree is much larger than the existing or original foliage, it may need additional sunlight. Trees grown indoors without a bright sunny window/grow lights, or trees grown in shady spots outdoors, will produce larger leaves. An indoor tree may develop larger leaves farther away from the sunshine, you should rotate the tree and provide adequate lighting for the whole tree. Also, check to be sure that a rootstock sucker has not taken over. Often rootstock branches grow more vigorously and have larger leaves than those of the fruiting wood. Be sure to remove all growth below the graft union.

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Solving Common Citrus Problems

Q

How Can I Treat Pest Issues & Other Ailments?

A

Ants Keep your tree free of ants! They will farm scales or aphids, etc. moving them from place to place, milking their secretions, and protecting them from beneficial insects. Commercial ant baits that contain boric acid can be helpful.  Natural concoctions made at home can also work.  You can make an insecticide spray that will also repel ants.     Harmful Insects (Scales, Mealy bugs, Aphids, Mites, etc.) If you find harmful insects like scales, white-fly, aphids, or mites, all leaves and branches need to be cleaned of all pests AND the honeydew. Honeydew is sprayed all over the leaves and branches and causes the breakdown of photosynthesis- it is the honeydew that eventually kills the tree, so just drowning the pest in soapy water is not treating the problem they cause. For a potted tree use a soft cloth and soapy water to scrub off honeydew and remove all pests from the foliage and branches and treat the tree once it is clean with neem oil or horticultural oil. Use a toothbrush in hard to reach areas. Choosing Insect Pest Treatments Safer makes an aerosol product with Safer Soap and pyrethrin (a chrysanthemum derivative). Oils and soaps are available in nurseries or garden centers. With any treatment you use, spray the underside of the leaves as well, following the manufacturer's recommendations. Do not use stronger solutions! Repeat as needed to treat insects newly emerging from eggs. It is not advisable to spray when it is above 90°F or below 40°F, or if it is windy. Systemic Insecticides Particularly on plants that produce edible fruit, it is important to use all insecticides cautiously and sparingly.  Try to avoid systemic insecticides, since they are moved throughout the plant, and residues may occur in the fruit.   Honeydew A sticky substance secreted and sprayed by pests as they feed on plant sap. These pests sharp mouth-part penetrates the tissue of the tree and spray honeydew To monitor for pests, look on the underside of the leaves, on stems and in notches of branches. Distorted leaves maybe the first sign of a pest infestation. Sticky/Oozing Trunk Older trees may be afflicted by brown rot gummosis at the base of the trunk, caused by a soil fungus called Phytophthera. Typically, you will notice a sticky substance coming out of the tree's trunk. Weed eater and rodent damage can lead to gummy bark secretions.  Keep the base of the trunk dry, and clear away any soil, mulch, grass, or weeds that might be holding moisture at the base.  Trim away infected areas with a sharp (clean) knife, use tree seal to cover the wound and monitor for recurrence.  Remove decayed bark to a point where no discoloration is visible. If water hits the trunk from sprinklers, that can trigger the fungus as well. Make sure water does not stand in a basin around the trunk during winter rains or after irrigating.   Be sure to always clean pruners with alcohol or another antiseptic cleaner between uses to prevent disease spread among trees.   White Speckled Leaves If the leaves on your tree are turning white, or if you see white or yellow 'polka dots,' your tree may have spider mites. The dots are usually the size of a pin head that can spread to give the leaves a whitish look. Spider mites suck the juices from leaf cells, causing leaves to bleach out.  Spider mites can be controlled with soap and oil sprays, if the problem is discovered early.  A very effective product for spider mite and other sucking insect control is Organic Orange TKO.  This multi-purpose organic cleaner, used at the most dilute rate, will knock down mites and kill eggs.  Be sure to monitor weekly to be ready for any pest recurrence.  You may need to spray about every 10 days for three weeks to kill newly hatching eggs. Removal of the honeydew is essential Helpful Insects Spiders, lady beetles, lacewings,  are some of the beneficial you may see around citrus trees outdoors. You can sometimes buy beneficial organisms, such as lady beetles at local nurseries. To deterime what pest is on the tree and more prevention and treatment ideas you can look here- https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/pest-disease

Q

What Are Water Sprouts And Suckers?

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In citrus, “Water Sprouts” as they are commonly called, are juvenile adventurous branches that shoot straight up and out of the canopy.  They often have huge thorns and big leaves.  This can be confusing as they often mimic “root suckers” in their growth habit and appearance but there are several vital distinctions to help you identify each type. Any growth below the graft is not a water sprout it is a sucker. Always locate and become familiar with the graft or bud union on the trunk of the tree. A water-sprout will not kill a tree, but a sucker will eventually, as it depletes and exhausts the moisture and nutrients from the tree. The grafted area will have a notched V shaped area and the wood will look different,- it could also look like a branch was removed in the area or a knobby area. Any growth below the graft needs to be removed.  I also remove the growth directly on the graft Suckers can also shoot straight up from the potting soil or ground near the tree, these need to be removed immediately. To view a photo of the graft area- https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/pest-disease

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What Causes Leaf, Bloom & Fruit Drop & Twig Die Back?

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Fruit Drop Some fruit drop is normal for an immature tree. As it gets older the tree will drop less fruit. If fruit or bloom drop is excessive, proper watering is often the solution. Extremely hot, dry, windy weather will trigger fruit drop. Be sure trees are well watered in these situations. Excessive fruit drop accompanied by splitting fruit is the result of too much water uptake. Leaf Drop/Twig Dieback Leaf drop and twig dieback can be caused by lack of light. Citrus trees need a minimum of 6 hours of direct full sun to grow. If growing indoors, your trees will do better with a supplemental lighting for the winter. If your tree receives adequate light, and experiences leaf drop, improper watering is probably the culprit. Check out the watering recommedations in this FAQ section. Should your tree lose all its leaves, don't despair. You can prune it back lightly to help push new growth; then, with improved growing conditions (adequate light, correct watering) it should recover. Remember also to feed regularly with a good citrus fertilizer (3:1:1 ratio or similar). Check your tree regularly for pests. Severe infestations of scale insects, or mites can cause defoliation. Regular monitoring will help you to take action in time, before severe stress (defoliation) occurs.

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What Causes Yellowing Leaves On Citrus Trees?

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Yellowing foliage usually indicates over watering, lack of fertilizer or a pest has caused problems. Continued overwatering will cause root tips to rot, rendering the tree unable to take up nutrients. Total defoliation can result if the problem is not corrected. Read our recommedations in our FAQ section on proper watering Citrus are heavy feeders and require a constant steady source of Nitrogen, especially to look good and be productive.  Make sure you fertilize regularly according to label directions with a quality citrus/avocado fertilizer.  Make sure the ratio of any fertilizer you use has a higher amount of Nitrogen, relative to the other two elements.  A 3:1:1 or 4:1:1 (N:P:K) fertilizer, plus trace elements is ideal. If a pest is the culprit,  read our FAQ section on pest treatment.

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Why Does My Citrus Tree Have Curling Leaves?

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If the leaves on your dwarf citrus are curling, there are three common possibilities: Some insect pests will cause some leaf curl. In spring, aphids might do this on soft new leaves. Look inside the curl for presence of insects. Leaf miner will cause leaves to look curled. Underwatering can cause leaves to curl or cup INWARD. Also, stress from very hot weather will cause leaf cupping Sometimes leaves will cup DOWNWARD in the late fall or early winter. This is not a problem to worry about, as the new growth will come out with normal shaped leaves in the spring.

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Why Isn't My Tree Producing Fruit?

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There are a number of possible reasons: Is the tree growing in the shade or indoors? Light is essential for fruit production. Foliage growth can occur in the shade, but leaves will tend to be larger than normal and shoots longer than normal. At least six hours of full sun a day is required.  Provide 8 or more hours of sun per day for optimal fruit production. If your tree grows at a rapid rate and has for years, it's possible that a rootstock sucker has taken over. Have there been blooms on the tree that haven't set fruit, or small fruit that haven't developed to maturity? Also, be sure to supply appropriate fertilizer and water. Citrus cannot bear fruit if they lack the nutrients. Fertilizer recipe - https://lemoncitrustree.com/store/citrus-blog/2015/08/11/feeding-recipe-for-a-happy-tree/

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