Click Fraud Protection
866-216-TREE (8733)

You have no items in your shopping cart.

Subtotal: $0.00

LemonCitrusTree Citrus Tree Care

Click below for our fruit tree care guides:

Avocado Tree Care | Fig Tree Care | Persimmon Tree Care | Olive Tree Care

Miracle Fruit Plant Care | Growing Citrus in the Ground | Pomegranate Tree Care


Growing Citrus in Containers
866-216-TREE (8733)


Citrus trees are especially suited for container growing as they can be kept at manageable sizes. Trees planted in decorative pots are attractive on a patio or apartment balcony. In colder zones or during freezing weather, bring the citrus indoors. These tips can help you on the way to successful citrus growing in containers:


1. Select the right sized pot with adequate drainage holes (see recommendations below).

2. Use a soil mix that is lightweight and drains well. Use a root stimulator in the first few applications, if desired.

3. When shopping for soil mix, please avoid those that contain chemical wetting agents or fertilizers.  Soil mixes formulated for outdoor use are preferable to potting mixes for indoor plants since the latter often contain chemical wetting agents. These wetting agents can cause tree roots to remain too wet after watering. Start with a good, rich organic soil and amend with about 1/3-1/2 volume wood shavings, perlite or coco fiber. Mixes formulated for Cactus/Citrus contain a lot of sand but can work. Use your judgment to amend as needed.

4. Develop a watering schedule so the roots maintain even moisture, but are not waterlogged. Water before leaves show wilting, and when roots have reached about 50% dryness. Utilize a moisture meter to determine moisture levels at the roots. Elevate pots above standing drainage water.

5. Provide eight or more hours of direct sunlight per day. If less than six hours of natural full sun is provided, supplement with grow lights. Usually an unobstructed south or southwest facing window is ideal.

6. Plant the tree so the root collar (crown root) show above the soil line and the top of the fibrous root mass is just below the soil surface. Make sure that soil or mulch is not pushed up against the trunk of the tree.

7. A moisture tester can be an excellent tool to help determine when roots are in need of a drink. An alternative method simply employs a plain wooden dowel about the diameter of a pencil. Sharpen it with a whittling method (sharp knife) or pencil sharpener. Then insert this into the pot at varying depths, shallow to deeper, determining moisture using your direct senses (feel, smell, etc.).

8. Indoor citrus trees inspire innovation! There is no one “right” soil mix, except all the ones that contain happy citrus trees. People over the years and in every state have experimented, using locally available materials that work for them.



Selecting Planting Containers

 We recommend a 6-9 inch container for one year trees, a 10-14 inch container (5 gallon) for our 2-3 year old trees, and a 16-24 inch container (10 gallon) for the 3-4 and 4-5 year old trees.  A variety of decorative plastic containers are available at reasonable prices. Clay pots and wooden containers are attractive but less mobile choices. When selecting a container, be sure there are sufficient drainage holes. Drilling extra holes is an easy way to improve drainage with wood or plastic. As the tree grows, increase the container size (the next pot size up). Do not start with a pot that is too large as it makes soil moisture levels harder to control with small trees.


How to Plant in Containers

We recommend using commercially available potting mixes. Using dirt (native soil from your yard) in a container is not advisable. We also advise against putting gravel or any other material on the bottom of the pot, as this negatively impacts drainage over time.  The perfect high porosity soil mix can be hard to find, but we have found rose garden soil mixes (formulated for outside use) work well. Soils that are too heavy can be amended with about 1/3 to 1/2 volume of 1" redwood shavings, hardwood chips or cedar hamster bedding. Pine and spruce shavings tend to break down more quickly, so are not ideal.  Place the prepared soil mix in the bottom of your new container. Gently slide tree roots out of the old container, and detangle any circling roots so that growth in the new pot will not be impeded. Place the loosened root mass into the new container and gently fill with your fresh planting mix. Lightly pack down the soil to remove large air spaces from the root zone. The top of the roots should be just beneath the soil surface, and the crown roots (root collar area) should show above the soil line. Water deeply. Stake loosely and secure with a tie if needed. It’s a good idea to repot every year or so, or when you see roots peeking through drainage hole.

Selecting a Location for Indoor/Outdoor Containers

Sunny, wind-free locations with southern exposure are the best. If in doubt, leave the tree in its plastic container and place it in the spot you have in mind. After a week or two, you should be able to tell if the tree is thriving.


Consistency is the key when watering citrus. Citrus trees require soil that is moist but never soggy. Watering frequency will vary with soil porosity, tree size, and environmental factors. DO NOT WATER IF THE TOP OF THE SOIL IS DRY WITHOUT CHECKING THE SOIL AT ROOT LEVEL! A simple moisture meter, available at garden supply stores, will read moisture at the root level. This inexpensive tool will allow you to never guess about whether or not a plant needs water.  (Also note the dowel method as described in item 7 above.) A wilted tree that perks up within 24 hours after watering indicates the roots got too dry. Adjust the watering schedule accordingly.  A tree with yellow or cupped leaves, or leaves that don't look perky AFTER watering can indicate excessive watering and soggy roots. Give your tree water less often.  Citrus trees prefer infrequent, deep watering to frequent, shallow sprinklings. Deeper watering promotes deeper root growth and strengthens your tree. Generally, deep watering once or twice per week works well for container specimens. Be sure to adjust your watering regimen based on weather conditions!


Citrus trees feed heavily on nitrogen. Your fertilizer should have more nitrogen (N) than phosphorous (P) or potassium (K). Use at least a 2-1-1 ratio. (16:8:8, 24:10:10, 14:6:5, and 18:6:6 are examples that will work well.)  In some regions, you may be able to find specialized citrus/avocado fertilizers. Any good citrus formula will contain trace minerals like iron, zinc, and manganese. Many all-purpose and commercial organic products will work. We prefer slow release fertilizers in the granular form rather than fertilizer stakes. Fertilizers come in different strengths, release rates, and application schedules, so follow package instructions carefully. We recommend that you fertilize more often than recommended with most slow release fertilizers. Yellowing leaves indicate lack of fertilizer or poor drainage.


Know where the graft union is on your tree. It can usually be seen as a diagonal scar between four and eight inches from the soil. Remove all shoot growth below the graft. These "suckers" take vitality from the top of the tree (the fruiting wood). The growth of suckers is especially vigorous on young trees. Remove them as soon as they are observed.


Thorns are removed from rootstocks when they are grafted. Juvenile fruiting wood will sometimes have thorns; this is a young plant's way of defending against grazing animals. As the tree matures, thorns will not appear as often. Prune off thorns if desired.



Citrus can be shaped as desired, and will look fuller with occasional pruning to shape leggy branches. Pruning is fine any time of year, except in the winter for outdoor trees. Some trees may develop erratic juvenile growth above the graft. If so, prune for shape and balance. Prune away any erratic branch that is too irregular or crossing another branch. Other fruitful branches will replace it. Any growth above the graft can eventually bear fruit. Well-pruned trees have higher fruit yields and are less prone to branch breakage.


Citrus are self-fruitful indoors, and don’t generally require pollination to be productive. Some people enjoy pollinating their trees, using a small soft brush or cotton swab to transfer pollen among the flowers.


Beneficial Insects


Most insects do no harm to citrus trees! Lady beetles, lacewings, and praying mantis are among the beneficial insects you may see around outdoor citrus trees.

Pest Insects

If you find harmful insects like scales, aphids, or mites, a household spray bottle of water with some mild dish soap could be all you need. Orange TKO, an organic cleaner, works very well at a diluted rate. You can also find specially formulated horticultural soap products at local garden centers. Use a soft toothbrush to scrub away adherent scale insects and recheck in a week to see if another treatment is needed. If scale insects persist, the usual nursery treatment is a 1% solution of light horticultural oil.


Many citrus varieties can tolerate temperatures as low as 32 degrees for 2-3 hours. Over-wintering your citrus trees indoors will be necessary if you live in a colder region.  Even temperate locations can drop below freezing so it's good to have a plan of action ready. Old fashioned Christmas lights (that produce some heat) can be effective. Straw mulches, cloth covers and even plastic sheeting can be combined as needed to provide the necessary level of protection.